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When curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.